Knit a Cable Raglan Cardigan to Match a Romper Set
The cardigan that goes with the dungaree/romper set: knitted in one piece from the hem, with 8-stitch braided cables and neat twisted raglan lines.
On my other channel I showed how to make a dungaree set. This is the matching cardigan, in a smaller size. The body is knitted in one piece from the hem up, with 8-stitch cables on the fronts and back. The sleeves are knitted separately, and everything joins at the raglan yoke. The raglan lines have a little twisted stitch running along them, which looks so neat.
What you'll need
- Thick wool in two colours (one for the garter borders, one for the body)
- Knitting needles to suit your wool, and a cable needle (optional)
- Small buttons
The cable
Each cable is 8 stitches with 2 purl stitches on each side. On a cable row, cross the first 4 to the right (hold 2 at the back, knit 2, then knit the 2 held), then cross the next 4 to the left (hold 2 in front, knit 2, knit the 2 held). The cable crosses every 6 rows.
Step 1: The body up to the armholes
- Border
Cast on 100 stitches (the button bands are added later) and knit 12 rows of garter stitch, making 6 ridges.
- Divide
Mark 22 stitches for each front and 56 for the back.
- Set-up row (RS, new colour)
Front: knit 5, purl 1, purl and knit into the next stitch (increase), knit 6, knit and purl into the next stitch (increase), purl 1, knit 7. Back: knit 7, purl 2, knit 8, purl 2, knit 18, purl 2, knit 8, purl 2, knit 7. Second front: knit 7, purl 1, increase, knit 6, increase, purl 1, knit 5.
- Wrong-side rows
Work the stitches as they appear.
- Cables
Cross each cable every 6th row. The front cables get 2 extra stitches each so the cardigan doesn't pull in; the back ones don't need them.
I knitted 40 rows after the border, crossing the cables 6 times, then 4 more rows. Adjust the length for your child.
Step 2: The twisted raglan shaping
Now divide the body into the two fronts (24 stitches each) and the back, and work each part separately. The raglan edge has a twisted stitch that leans along the line, and the decrease is worked right into it.
- Front, first RS row
Work in pattern to the last 4 stitches. Knit 1, slip 2, bring the second one to the front, and knit both, twisting one over the other. Knit the edge stitch. This row is just the twist, with no decrease. Turn and work back as the stitches appear.
- Front, decrease rows (RS)
Work to the last 4. Slip 2, bring the second stitch to the front, knit it through the back loop, then knit the next 2 together through the back loop. That's the twist and a decrease in one. Knit the edge stitch.
- Front, repeat
Decrease like this 5 times in all (12 rows). Leave the stitches on the needle with the yarn attached.
- Back
Join new yarn. Work the twist row with no decrease, then decrease at both ends on every right-side row, 5 times in all. At the start of the row, slip 1, twist the 2nd and 3rd stitches to the right while knitting them together, knit 1. At the end, work the same move as the front. Cut the yarn.
- Second front
Join new yarn and mirror the first front: a twist row, then 5 decreases at the raglan edge.
Step 3: The sleeves (make two)
- Border
Cast on 34 stitches (30 if you knit loosely) and knit the same garter border.
- Set-up row
Knit 1, increase, knit 10, purl-increase (the gap), knit 8, purl-increase, knit 10, increase, knit 1. You now have 38.
- Next 4 rows
Work the stitches as they appear.
- Shaping
On each cable row, also increase 1 stitch at each end. Do this 4 times (every 6th or 7th row), then carry on straight with the cable until the sleeve is long enough.
- Raglan
Work the twist row with no decrease, then twist-and-decrease at both ends on every right-side row, 5 times, as for the back. You go from 46 stitches to 36.
Step 4: Join the yoke
With the yarn still attached to the first front, work across all the pieces in order: front, sleeve, back, sleeve, front. Carry the twisted raglan decrease across each join, pulling the yarn firmly where two pieces meet. Then work the wrong side as the stitches appear. Only the two stitches at each join look like knits; the rest is purled.
- Yoke RS rows
At each of the 4 joins, knit 1, knit 2 together through the back loop, knit the 2 plain centre stitches, then twist the next pair while knitting them together, knit 1. Work the cables and pattern in between.
- Yoke WS rows
Work the stitches as they appear.
I knitted 20 rows of yoke and had about 74 stitches left.
Step 5: Neck border and button bands
- Thick wool makes 74 stitches too many for the neck, so bring it down to about 64: knit 2 together every 12–13 stitches across the row.
- Knit the same garter border as the hem, then bind off. I bound off purlwise for a slightly raised edge, but knitwise is fine too. Don't cut the yarn. You'll use it for the button band.
- Button band: Pick up 3 stitches, cast on 1, pick up 3, cast on 1… all down the front edge so the band isn't tight. I got 60 stitches. Knit the band in garter stitch, then do the other side.
- I didn't make buttonholes. Small buttons pass easily through thick knitted fabric, and in thick wool buttonholes often come out too big.
Sew on the buttons, add a patch or pocket if you like, and your cardigan is ready to go with its romper.
- cable cardigan
- kids cardigan pattern
- raglan cardigan
- cable knitting
- romper set
- hand knitted kids clothes
- thick wool
- handmade
